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IIJW 2012
India
International
Jewellery
Week
by BUSHRA SEHAR
With the festive season around the corner, it was the perfect time to see what some of the best jewellery designers in India had to offer. And what better platform can there be than the third India International Jewellery Week (IIJW), held over five days in Mumbai. This year's edition was inaugurated by Sonam Kapoor and Hema Malini, and the program began with a showing of the Grand Envi and Nizam Collections by Gitanjali. The crème de la crème of the Indian TV industry and film personalities walked the ramp to support the fight against female foeticide, acid attacks and women's illiteracy. Real life couples Sonu Nigam and Madhurima, and Rohit and Maanasi Roy walked the ramp hand in hand, while Tusshar Kapoor, Raima Sen and Zayed Khan took to the stage with their co-stars. Everyone was dressed in beautiful Indian outfits by Vikram Phadnis, Swapnil Shinde, Barkha and Sonzal, Mohini and Neeta Lulla – and the clothes matched perfectly with the timeless emerald pieces, the traditional jewellery styles such as rose cut diamonds, kundan work, enamel and Victorian pieces, and watches.
Designers seemed to have flower power on their minds as many created pieces using the floral motif in various forms. Some, like Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers gave their collections an eco-conscious framework, taking inspiration from nature and representing it in jewellery. From intricate and larger-than-life brooches to simple earrings, flowers in diamonds and coloured stones bloomed on the runway. The 'Palash' collection by Kashi Jewellers also featured the floral motif.
The favourite bird of all jewellers, the peacock, was also a common theme across designs. Either the entire bird or just the feathers were represented in various pieces, usually studded with brilliant sapphires and emeralds to recreate the peacock's colours. The peacock feather earrings by Entice were truly drool-worthy. The collection by Payal Singhal for Sangini by Gitajanli was inspired by deserts, and the pieces were as fine as sand, with just diamonds used for sparkle.
It wasn't just royalty and the Mughal dynasty that had designers hooked this season, but all things Indian. Some designs were truly traditional with polki diamonds and lots of gold making an impression like the beautiful polki necklace with a tassled pendant worn by Sonam Kapoor for the grand finale. The maang tikka was attached using two strands of bejewelled gold rather than the usual single strand, forming a lovely headpiece reminiscent of ages past.
Some designers took inspiration from the present, like Nishka Lulla's collection for Asmi called 'The Kumbh'. Gold jhumkas, earrings looped over the ears and traditional pieces were meant to represent all the colour and flavour of the festival.
While every showstopper emphatically stated that diamonds were a girl's best friend, designers seemed to think otherwise. The jewels this season showcased pearls and coloured stones in a grand way. Large emeralds formed the central stones in many necklaces while ruby earrings dotted the ears of most models. Sapphires were the next favourite, and their blue beauty shadowed the sparkle of the diamonds placed around them.
Pearls were also seen in many collections, either in strands as necklaces of hanging prettily from earrings. The collection by Jewels Emporium, a brand that was born in 1841 featured lovely pearl necklaces and mother-of-pearl detailing as well. The Modern Collection by Saboo Fine Jewels used natural Basra pearls with rubies in some necklaces too.
In terms of style, last year's navel-graving necklaces seemed out while chokers and collar pieces were preferred by designers and buyers alike. Multi-stranded necklaces with the studded embellishment placed slightly off the centre are also in vogue. Large pendants with hanging pearls or diamonds, sometimes doubling as maang tikkas were also spotted. Stud earrings are definitely out, and multi-tassled drop earrings that almost reach the shoulder are a must-have. Ditch the usual diamond bangles for elaborate cuffs. These large beauties graced the wrist of every model and came in a variety of widths.
The bevy of beauty queens and Bollywood divas that took to the ramp at the India International Jewellery Week (IIJW) 2012 admittedly lent a generous dose of glimmer to the sparklers on display. But at the same time, the event also served to prove that one needs more than just a famous show-stopper for the designs to leave an impression.
As always it was the Grand Finale – "Best of the Best" show at the IIJW 2012 that was the highlight of the event. The dual grand finales were power packed events that enabled a wide number of people to witness the best collections from 34 designers who showed one design each, which was considered the Best of the Best.
Starting with the grand PC Jeweller show called "Glittering Panorama" with 24 entries and the gorgeous Bollywood star, Madhuri Dixit Nene as the showstopper, it moved to the best pieces of the IIJW 2012 designers. Accompanying the models as they walked down the beautifully decorated ramp was the melodious music of singer, Kailash Kher and his band Kailasa. For the finale it was the gorgeous Sonam Kapoor who ended the IIJW 2012.
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