An hour’s flight east of Bali and three times its size is Sumba: an island of ancestral villages, tribal traditions and, on a forested fringe of long golden beach, Nihiwatu. Originally a surf resort, it soon became known for its simple luxuries and eco approach. Its villas – the largest of which has its own pavilions, kitchen and library – have pointed thatched roofs that are typically Sumbanese, private infinity pools and bales set in gardens of banana and frangipani trees. Experiences include riding ponies into the surf, nudging a paddleboard down-river, diving and surfing. It’s a place in which, somewhere between the sea spray and lost-world traditions, it’s possible to lose yourself completely. Ombak restaurant overlooks the bay and serves a mix of Indonesian and western-style dishes, with vegetables from the resort’s organic gardens and trees. Watching the surf pros while you tuck into nasi goreng or pancakes is a mesmerising way to start the stay. For something less formal head down to Nio Beach Club for fresh fish, tacos and pizza at The Boat. Food at Nihioka is mostly vegetarian, with a range of vegan dishes.